We are bound for Naples

We are bound for Naples! And we cross the threshold of the EternalCity at yonder gate, the Gate of San Giovanni Laterano, where thetwo last objects that attract the notice of a departing visitor,and the two first objects that attract the notice of an arrivingone, are a proud church and a decaying ruin--good emblems of Rome.Our way lies over the Campagna, which looks more solemn on a brightblue day like this, than beneath a darker sky; the great extent ofruin being plainer to the eye: and the sunshine through the archesof the broken aqueducts, showing other broken arches shiningthrough them in the melancholy distance. When we have traversedit, and look back from Albano, its dark, undulating surface liesbelow us like a stagnant lake, or like a broad, dull Lethe flowinground the walls of Rome, and separating it from all the world! Howoften have the Legions, in triumphant march, gone glittering acrossthat purple waste, so silent and unpeopled now! How often has thetrain of captives looked, with sinking hearts, upon the distantcity, and beheld its population pouring out, to hail the return oftheir conqueror! What riot, sensuality and murder, have run mad inthe vast palaces now heaps of brick and shattered marble! Whatglare of fires, and roar of popular tumult, and wail of pestilenceand famine, have come sweeping over the wild plain where nothing isnow heard but the wind, and where the solitary lizards gambolunmolested in the sun!

~Charles Dickens

Gardens

Apiertivo

On one of the last nights spent in Firenze, the group ate at a restaurant that served Apiertivo style. After purchasing one drink, an all-you-can eat buffet was yours to devour.



Since a lot of the dishes were meat, the bartender sympathized with the students who kept kosher and provided ample vegetarian options.

The experience was unique and the food was delicious. I was planning on saving room for what had become my nightly gelato splurge but found that I was too full.




I noticed that unlike at many other restaurants and bars in Firenze, where most people were foreign (and more noticeably, American) at the Apiertivo, the other guests were Italian. I found myself wishing that I had discovered apiertivos sooner, but I guess it is a well kept secret of Italy!

Gelato!!!

The gelato in Italy was absolutely fantastic and I made sure to sample the gelato in almost every city that I visited. I can conclude without a doubt that the gelato in Viarregio, the small beach town, was by far the best.

The gelato of each Italian city definitely had its own unique taste (and unique prices, Venice being the most expensive.)
However, the gelato in Florence won the prize for most intricate and the most variegated flavors to choose from. Sometimes you would find three gilato stores on the same street. One nice thing as well was that Florentines allowed for more than three different flavors per order. There were also many different sizes, sometimes, as many as 7. My favorite flavors were tiramisu and yogurt and nutella.

Towards the end of my stay, I stumbled upon a gelato store right near our apartment. It was the best tasting gelato in all of Florence and the cheapest as well! The farther I walked away from the duomo, the gelato and most food became. Due to the humidity and heat of the summer, I was very impressed how the gelato maintained it’s intricate shape. Especially since the ingredients used to make gelato are not homogenized together (unlike ice cream), and the result is that the product melts faster than ice cream.

A Laughable Public Beach

Rachel and I decided to escape hot, humid Firenze and explore and enjoy the beach town of Viarregio. After a long, rickety train ride we arrived at about 5:00PM. We then proceeded to drive from the train station down one main road that led to the beach. Eagerly, the sand beneath our feet, we made our way to the water. We had to go through a bar/restaurant in order to reach our destination. Thinking nothing of the group of onlookers in the restaurant whose chattering halted as we passed, we remained oblivious to their stares.

When we reached the waters edge, Rachel and I decided to sit down on one of the many empty beach chairs and try our luck. Our attempts to remain inconspicuous were clearly a failure since before we had a chance to put our things down, a lifeguard was already approaching us with an apologetic look in his eyes. We were then informed that this was private domain. Naturally, we asked how and until where to proceed onward and were told that we needed to walk until we passed all of the beach chairs. We walked for what seemed like eternity, passing the many beachgoers who were enjoying the space. Finally, we arrived at a scrap of land probably at best 50 feet in length. After walking for at least a half an hour to arrive at a stretch of beach that was roughly equivalent to twice the width of my bedroom, you can imagine our surprise. Many beachgoers were cramped, sharing this tiny space while the miles of beach we had just passed had space not to mention chairs for which the word ample was an understatement.

Realizing the reality of our situation, Rachel and I sat down on the beach with the other people and made the best of it. I took a walk down the boardwalk which was filled with fisherman and old couples sunbathing and enjoying the view. The water felt amazing and we spent a few hours just relaxing on the public beach. When pangs of hunger set in, we set out in search of a restaurant. We found a scrumptious fish restaurant and topped it off with a gelato- in my and Rachel’s opinion, the best gelato we have tasted.

Tranquil Fiesole

On a recommendation from my father I decided to visit Fiesole, a quaint, tranquil village nestled at the top of a winding road leading up from Firenze. Fiesole was quite a contrast to Firenze. Everything in Fiesole was proportionately charming and petite. Unlike the bustling, vibrant, tourism feel of Firenze, Fiesole gave off an authentic small town vibe.
Once, Fiesole was of greater significance than Firenze so it is ironic that the main purpose for visiting Fiesole today is to gaze down on the remarkable view of Firenze. And what a view it is; Spectacular in a sense that my photos cannot convey. Once named, Faesulae, Fiesole was an important Etruscan town, commanding the Arno valley from its defensive heights. It made use of its heights for defensive purposes. Romans encouraged a new settlement down by the Arno in order to draw attention away from Fiesole and over time Firenze gradually gained precedence. Fiesole possesses many beautiful villas that were built as a getaway for rich Florentines eager to eschew the crowded heat of Firenze.

Fiesole boasts an archaeological museum (Museo archeologico) which demonstrates the once more prominent existence of Fiesole compared to that of Firenze. I sadly did not have enough time to visit, however visitors with more time on their hands can explore the Roman ruins that are part of the general archaeological area, that date back to the historical time when Fiesole was a strategic city. The ruins include a Roman theatre, temple and baths, as well as an earlier Etruscan temple dating to the 4th century BC. I passed up this educational opportunity for the more tempting gelato across the street yonder.

.Around the town square, Piazza Mino da Fiesole, sit some important buildings including Chiesa di Santa Maria Primerana, the Palazzo Vescovile (Bishop's Palace), originally built in the 11th century, Palazzo Pretorio (the town council), and the Cattedrale San Romolo (the town’s cathedral), built and expanded between the 11th and 14th centuries.

Due to the rain, we took shelter in the library which was reflective of the petiteness that is Fiesole. The main streets were lined with little boutiques, cafés and gelaterias which were not very crowded but mainly filled with the inhabitants of this little village who all harbored friendly dispositions. In order to get there I took the number 7 bus. The route up the winding road to Fiesole was an experience in itself. On the way back down descended early and took pictures from a beautiful lookout point where I indulged myself with cherries freshly bought from the market-The perfect end to an Italian expenditure most worthwhile.

A Perfidious Species

Here I am in beautiful Firenze and all I that is on my mind that is that I intensely itch! I don't even have the attention span to write a blog on one of the breathtaking sites I have seen on my day trips to Roma or Bologna since the urge to scratch is just excruciatingly uncontrollable. I am in the middle of a one-sided love affair with the mosquitoes of Italy. They seem to be of a uniquely horrendous breed, one that I am particularly susceptible and allergic to. These mosquitoes find my face especially attractive. I have never been so desired by American mosquitoes before so I am having difficulties dealing with the ten or more new mosquito bites that adorn my face every morning. Minutes after appearing, my bites erupt into enormous welts that lend me the appearance of an odd looking leopard excommunicated from the clan because of its uncouth red spots. My new hobby in the apartment has become killing mosquitoes. The best technique is to take a heavy shoe and squash the vile creature into the wall. I know that I have lost the battle when my own blood drips down the pristine, white wall. As I walk the streets of Firenze I gaze at the natives and see no signs of my own misery marking their bodies. I cannot help but wonder how they escape unscathed. Today, I went to the local grocery store and found an anti-mosquito device that plugs into an outlet on the wall. I am not sure what the product consists of since the writing on the label was all in Italian but I am relying on its effectiveness promised by the store clerk. I am praying that tomorrow I will wake up with only 50 bites!!!!!